Memories, Traces, and Spaces of Migration

Historically, Belleville has been known as one of the most multicultural neighborhoods in Paris, welcoming migrants of many different cultural backgrounds, ethnicities, and religions. It has provided a space for many communities to use art, architecture, and cuisine as tools for “marking the urban landscape” with their history and presence (7). According to historian Gerard Jacquemet, the “symbolic power of Belleville is so great that it overflows its boundaries” (8). Although Belleville is primarily situated in the 20th arrondissement of Paris, parts of the neighborhood lie in and between four different arrondissements (the 19th, 20th, 10th, and 11th). Therefore, much like its diverse cultural make-up, Belleville is quite literally an amalgamation of many different physical, cultural, and historical parts that make up its unique identity. 

Once an independent commune, Belleville did not become a part of Paris until 1860 (9). Its history, as well as its location on the “outskirts” of Paris, have contributed to a “collective memory” of Belleville that is greatly defined by social and “spatial solidarities,” as well as a strong sense of identity among its culturally diverse inhabitants (10). The first wave of migration to Belleville occurred during the second half of the 19th century when many workers were forced out of the center of Paris due to Georges-Eugène Haussman’s “radical” urban renovation project. 

Between 1831 and 1846, the population of Paris jumped from 759,000 to over 1 million inhabitants (11). This not only caused the city to become overcrowded but extremely dirty and rampant with disease. The city’s overpopulation, therefore, became an acute social problem, inspiring Emperor Napoleon III to hire Haussman and begin one of the “most extensive public works” projects ever “voluntarily carried out in a European city" (12). The construction lasted for over 17 years (13). Although Haussman can be thanked for the city’s iconic wide, tree-lined streets, elegant architecture, large parks, and squares, his renovations resulted in the destruction of nearly 12,000 buildings - most of which housed poor and working-class Parisians (14). As reported in a story by the Guardian, Haussmans’ renovations “cut a swathe through the cramped and chaotic labyrinth of slum streets in the city center,” causing thousands of people to become displaced (15). Moreover, the renovations caused the standard of living in Paris to increase dramatically. This was not an unintended consequence of the renovations but one that Haussmann encouraged. In a letter to Napoléon III, Haussmann argued that it was necessary to «accepter dans une juste mesure la cherté des loyers et des vivres [...] comme un auxiliaire utile pour défendre Paris contre l’invasion des ouvriers de la province» (16). He, therefore, believed that the high cost of living was a desirable consequence of the renovations. It would, for many years to come, be used as a critical tool for protecting the city against the “provincial workers'' who infiltrated it (17). Consequently, many republican opponents considered Haussman’s renovations to be an “imperialist tool” for fermenting division and “civil unrest in working-class areas” (18). Others also accused Haussman of “social engineering” by “destroying economically mixed areas' ' where the wealthy and the poor interacted and instead creating distinctly “wealthy” arrondissements (19).

Given that Belleville had not yet been considered a part of Paris at the start of Haussman’s renovations, many working-class Parisians, who were forced out of the center of the city, moved to Belleville. Therefore, even in its early history, Belleville has been deeply associated with the working class, serving as a refuge for the “unwanted” members of society or those who have quite been kept in the margins. Like the Marais, the working-class status of Belleville inspired many foreign immigrants to begin settling in the neighborhood. 

The first large wave of foreign immigration occurred in the early 20th century, during the interwar period. It began with the settlement of Armenians, Greeks, and Polish Ashkenazi Jews who attempted to escape harmful political programs in their home countries (20). This first wave of foreign immigrants contributed heavily to the development of an already strong crafts industry in Belleville - particularly in the areas of leather, clothing, and shoes (21). Many of the Ashkenazi Jews also opened restaurants and cafes - creating a strong Yiddish community life in Belleville (22). However, all of this changed during World War 2, when the Jewish community in Belleville was greatly affected by anti-Semitic raids and deportations that occurred across Europe. As a consequence, the Ashkenazi Jewish population in Belleville greatly diminished. Yet, their historical presence still remains evident in the artisan shops, crafts, and delis left behind. 

During the post-war period, following the deportation and displacement of Ashkenazi Jews, pro-immigration policies in France led to the arrival of both Sephardic Jews and Muslims from the former French colonies in North Africa, particularly Tunisia (23). The strong Tunisian and North African presence in Belleville remains extremely present when you visit the neighborhood. The main Boulevard de Belleville is lined with Tunisian cafes, pastry shops, and grocery stores selling typical Tunisian goods like Tuna and olive oil. Elderly Tunisian men can be seen sitting outside at local cafes or heading to the mosque with friends. Once again, however, one of the most fascinating sites is the coexistence of North African Jews and Muslims. In Belleville, Jews and Muslims live side by side. Local shops, cafes, and boucheries have halal and kosher signs posted outside of storefronts. Signs are written in both Arabic and Hebrew. For both communities, their common ethnic and cultural identity remains a strong unifying force. 

Throughout the 1960s, immigration to Belleville continued with the arrival of Sub-Saharan Africans and Asians, primarily from China and Vietnam (24). Their presence in the neighborhood is extremely strong. Many Vietnamese restaurants and African markets line the busy streets, creating a community rich with culture and diversity. The beauty of Belleville lies in its ostentatious display of culture. Signs are clearly written in a diverse array of languages - from Vietnamese to Arabic and Hebrew. Murals displaying images of young African girls and Asian caricatures line Rue Denoyez. Although gentrification has attempted to overtake the neighborhood, the city’s diversity remains quite strong.